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 Need help with SPLITDORF Model R-V-580

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RCA Bob



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Join date : 2010-10-13

PostSubject: Need help with SPLITDORF Model R-V-580   Wed Oct 13, 2010 6:50 am

I have been asked to restore a 5-tube TRF battery set with the brand name of Splitdorf and a model number of R-V-580. I need help obtaining the exact schematic for this model as well as suggestions for a DC power supply that will enable the owner to plug into household AC.

Thanks in advance for any and all help!
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glasdave

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Location : Aurora Colorado

PostSubject: Re: Need help with SPLITDORF Model R-V-580   Wed Oct 13, 2010 10:29 am

Is this it? http://www.radiomuseum.org/r/splitdorf_rv580.html.
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RCA Bob



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PostSubject: Re: Need help with SPLITDORF Model R-V-580   Wed Oct 13, 2010 1:51 pm

That is the exact model. Now all we have to do is come up with a schematic and power supply. Thanks.
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Chas

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Location : S. Dartmouth MA 02748-1225 ------------ Avatar: Uncle Tony's Shack

PostSubject: Re: Need help with SPLITDORF Model R-V-580   Wed Oct 13, 2010 3:43 pm

I would suggest an ARBE-III. It is a complete, safe power supply for battery radios that has a warranty. One needs only to wire it correctly and set the voltages. Done. Since this is for a customer, the ARBE provides you with a layer of protection that a homebrew supply could not. I sold one for an A-K 33 consolette, installed in the lower battery box. Customer couldn't be happier.

The radio FWIR is a neutrodyne using Lorenz coils also known as spider-web coils. It is a straight forward design and probably has two maybe three capacitors. I will check my schematic resources, possibly I'll have something close...

BTW What is the speaker? A horn looks good but the tone will suck. A free edge cone or an RCA meatball will do the radio justice. TRF's are broad response so have somewhat of a full tone despite the grid leak detector.

If the radio has been hacked a schematic would be needed but it can be "figured out".

Chas
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RCA Bob



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PostSubject: Re: Need help with SPLITDORF Model R-V-580   Wed Oct 13, 2010 5:14 pm

Thanks, Chas, for your help. I'm going to check with the owner of the radio and see if they want to pay the price for the power supply. My feeling is the same as yours, as far as piece of mind, with the ARBE III.

It appears as though there are three capacitor, a 1 MFD by pass that I have just restuffed with a new one, and two micas, .006 and .00025MFD. I'll probably replace them with new ceramics unless there is a better replacement.

I believe I am coming up with the correct battery supply connections as the original wire loom was cut off at the cabinet. There was plenty of "pigtail" left connected to the lower chassis that I can decifer what wires went where. There is a red wire and a dark red wire that may be the hardest ones to determine their original shade of red. Any help there will also be welcomed.

I haven't been able to find a schematic for this exact model.

Thanks, again, for all of your input.
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Chas

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PostSubject: Re: Need help with SPLITDORF Model R-V-580   Wed Oct 13, 2010 9:24 pm

Quote :
two micas, .006 and .00025MFD. I'll probably replace them with new ceramics unless there is a better replacement.

The .006 is a bypass and the .00025 is the detectors grid leak condenser. If these are not leaking, leave them even though they are open sandwich micas. The grid leak should be from 2-6 megs. If it gets too high the detector will begin to "motorboat". A value just below motorboating would yield the most sensitive detector. However, if there are powerful stations nearby the value will need to be lowered. Too low a value and the radio will have low volume and be insensitive.

Have you check the audio transformers?
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RCA Bob



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PostSubject: Re: Need help with SPLITDORF Model R-V-580   Sat Oct 16, 2010 7:34 am

Thanks, Chas, for your input. It is GREATLY appreciated.

What is available to bundle the new cloth covered wires I have installed for the power supply connections? Does anyone have something in brown, possibly cloth, that would resemble the original loom covering? I'll need about 20" of it.
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Chas

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PostSubject: Re: Need help with SPLITDORF Model R-V-580   Sat Oct 16, 2010 8:40 am

Bob,

In the 20's battery cable was sold in specific lengths and numbers of wires. My Dad made installations of battery sets in homes. They would install long lengths of battery cable, pass it through a hole in the floor, (1st.) fabricate a shelf suspended with strapping. The batteries and/or B supply with relay and L/A "A" battery would all be out of sight.

Many folks use new reproduction wire and pull a large shoe lace over it. Antique Electronic Supply has battery cable.

http://www.tubesandmore.com/scripts/foxweb.dll/catalog@d:/dfs/elevclients/cemirror/ELEVATOR.FXP?PAGE=SUBCAT&SEARCH_TREE01=ZCATALOG&SEARCH_TREE02=2009084

If there are two extra conductors, parallel the "A" battery leads.

One could also place a classified for a length of old battery cable.

Alpha Wire, FWIR, makes a black plastic braid that can be pulled over a wire bundle. If that braid is used, be sure to use ample lengths of adhesive heat shrink on both ends to prevent the braid from retracting and unraveling. One can make a very nice, neat cable but unfortunately it is not brown cotton covered...

Be sure to checkout the tubes, re-solder all the pins on them. The '01A '00A types can be rejeuvenated unless the Thorium is completely exhausted.

FWIW, although the radio has accessible shock points, the lid does cover them up. The ARBE has exposed terminals and should be placed somewhere where it is difficult to touch the voltage connections, yet still be ventilated...

Other important points, go over every electro-mechanical connection made by loosening, slightly wiggling and re-tightening the joints. Re-solder any joint that is questionable. Be cautious re-soldering joints where the connection will heat up a binding post or a coil form. Some early binding posts are made of a "mud" compound that is shellac based, the binding post will melt. That applies to hard rubber insulators too. Some coil forms are made of celluloid, that can suddenly ignite and burn away.

Check connections within the variable condensers, that they are clean and tight. Many condensers have gimmick mechanics to keep a certain tension and electro-mechanical connections on the rotor.

Tube sockets have these electro-mechanical connections too.

Chas


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